We were so resisting travelling to Changthang. Winter was around, and travelling to one of the roughest and harshest parts of Ladakh, was definitely not an ideal. We took two weeks to prepare our mind and body for the Changthang voyage. Getting the sleeping bags, trekking shoes, thick windshield jacket and so on. The roads were really smooth as compared to Trans Singay La where there no pucca roads (metalled roads). We had to cross only Tanglang La (Passes) to first reach Zara, the nomadic area. We reached in a day time where there was a community meeting going on. It became easy to converse with them or would have been difficult had they had gone for herding.
It took us sometimes to adjust ourselves to the altitude. Some of us felt nauseous, had headaches and the wind was too strong to bear. After pitching our tents, we had garam chai Oh, what a relief that was. After settling in, preparing ourselves to bear the weather – our purpose of capturing stories was fulfilled with our conservations with the Changpa nomads. Many spoke about the LNP Bhukari (cooking stove). Before LNP interventions, the nomads use the hearth for cooking, warming the tent but the smoke spread across the tent-making them vulnerable to many lungs problems. LNP gave them the Bhukari, which redistributed the smoke outside the tent than within, clear them of respiratory issues.
The next stop was Yagang, they don’t stay in Rebos like the Changpa in Zara, but instead, they live in made small houses made of rocks and available material. While strolling down the valley we met a number of people. We invited all of them to join us for evening tea and share their recollections of LNP’s work in the initial days. Many forward with narratives of fodder supports for their animals through the treacherous roads and snow blocks through Tanglang la road.
LNP has worked in the nomadic region for more than 30 years and it was difficult for us to cover every story as every one of the villages had something to tell LNP truly became a part of their life. Even if we camped for a month, I’m sure I wouldn’t have covered everything.
It makes me so proud that I’m now a part of the LNP family. I consider it as my responsibility to carry forward the legacy of LNP and be able to do the same work for what LNP is known for!
Padma Angmo Martselang, April 2021
